Maui Must-Eats :: Insider Dining

[trip style = food + wine + sun + luxury]

"This water before you was gathered from a mountain spring and carried for two hours on my back through the island brush. Please enjoy; it has been infused with flavors we foraged in our journey preparing for tonight's celebration." - Kainoa Horcajo at Ka Malama Dinner, Grand Wailea

Going beyond the typical trademarks of resort dining—sunset perch, local fish, umbrella drinks—a handful of pioneers are taking Maui dining into new territory. Executive chefs are getting down and dirty with the land. Wait staff are contributing family heirloom recipes to menus. Legendary food institutions are ever-honing their craft. You could say the current culinary coup is a recipe for success.

Here's why.  

Until my recent month-long stay on the Valley Isle, I thought I knew Maui's must-eats. With more than a baker's dozen visits, I've dined everywhere from roadside shave ice shacks to the island's it culinary coordinates, not just once but multiple times. You could call me a poke professional, a coconut connoisseur or a mai tai maven, but I'll just stick with Trip Styler.

This time was different; you could say I got more intimate with food and its origins. 

Ka Malama Dinner
At the just-launched Ka Malama Dinner, a five-course feast based on the ancient Hawaiian Moon Calendar, water took on new meaning and eating out looked within. Going beyond knowing the fisherman's name or the farmer's best crop—hallmarks of today's locavore dining movement—the Grand Wailea's best pairing is its people: An ocean-loving chef and a off-grid-living cultural advisor who set off on epic journeys to fish and forage for the feast.

In a throwback to the roots of eating seasonally and sustainably, the once-monthly celebration is an ode to the island's bounty and beginnings. From the grilled 'opelu {mackerel} to the ferns garnishing my place setting, the celebration—which I can only describe as raw and reverent—connected me the land as if I'd caught the dinner myself.   

In keeping with the Hawaiian tradition of "talking story" about the past, about life and about learning, every course was accompanied by the story of its origin. Let's just say I'll never sip water without savoring it ever again {see opening quote}.     

Details: The Ka Malama Dinner, located in the Humuhumunukunukuapua'a restaurant in the Grand Wailea takes place the third Thursday of every month from 6-8:30pm, and costs $150 USD per person, including cocktails, wine pairings, tax and gratuity. This Maui-insider feast can only be booked by calling (808) 875-1234.

Chef Mike Lofaro and Kainoa Horcajo introduce the Ka Malama Dinner

The earthy, hand-gathered table decor

Kai Momona: wana, shellfish coconut emulsion, ogo, sea beans

Dessert: Violet meringue, mango shave ice and fresh coconut water in a coconut husk

Ka Malama cocktail pairings

Kō
I have a "krush" on Kō. While The Fairmont Kea Lani's flagship restaurant mixes all the right ingredients for a trip styled eatery—place, panache, palate—what sets it apart is its commitment to culture and cultivation.

Translating to "sugarcane" in Hawaiian, Kō fuses Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Korean, Portuguese and Hawaiian influences from the plantation era, coupling staff's family recipes with a touch of flash. Think: Pacific Ahi dusted in local sea salt served alongside an oven-heated piece of granite for sear-it-yourself perfection.

Led by local Hawaiian and celebrated chef Tylun Pang, the restaurant's raison d'etre is a reflection of the cook and the man. With a keen focus on local eats, culinary artistry and giving back, Chef works each of these passions into his preparation whether he's sourcing ingredients from his flock of 16 local farmers, participating in the Best Hotel Chefs of America series at the James Beard House or giving all the proceeds from his cookbook, "What Maui Eats", to the Maui Culinary Academy.

Sear-it-yourself Ahi on the Rock at Kō 

Kō restaurant in The Fairmont Kea Lani

My other favorite Kō dish: Tempura-battered ahi Oishi Sushi 

Malasadas
Described by my friend, fellow Expedia Viewfinder and Hawaii guidebook author, Matt, as the best baked goods in the South Pacific, malasadas are donut-like delicacies brought to Hawaii by the Portuguese. Some are served in their pure form, doughy and sugar-topped, whereas others are filled with chocolate, vanilla or tropical custard, such as guava or pineapple. Moi, I'm a fan of the chocolate variety—especially when paired with Hawaii's own Kona coffee. 

Maui's most legendary address for aloha {in food form} is at Komoda Store & Bakery. The family-run business is as legit as they come; malasadas have been their main squeeze for almost 100 years. According to Matt and Mr. Trip Styler, the shop is smack in the middle of the Upcountry town of Makawao and exemplifies the saying "it's what's on the inside that counts."

Trip Styler Tip: Read more about the island's best malasadas in Matt's article in the Expedia Viewfinder. 

Mmmmmmmm...malasadas

Related
5 Fabulous Food Splurges on Maui
Conquering the Road to Hana
Jetset Style: Aloha Wear
Maui: A Space-Age Spa

[top photo by @tripstyler, ka malama photos via grand wailea, kō photos via fairmont kea lani, malasada photo via pillsbury]

Lanai 2.0

[trip style = luxury + beach + sun]

The tides are changing in Lanai, the billionaire-owned private island 9 miles from Maui. Once a Dole plantation growing 75% of the world's pineapple bounty, production moved elsewhere and small-scale tourism took over in the 1980s.

But, let me qualify tourism. There's one car rental agency, one gas station, only 29 miles of paved roads and vast expanses of land so quiet, you can picnic in paradise wearing nothing more than your birthday suit. To me, it's Hawaii as it was intended: exotic, authentic and soul-stirring. 

Couple this with 3,000 inhabitants who are set on preserving Hawaii's heritage through song, story and spirit, and it's no wonder Lanai's curious newcomers quickly turn into converts.

If you've been following Trip Styler since 2009, you know I have a crazy-in-love crush on Lanai. So much so that when I was there a month ago for the second time {with Mr. and Baby Styler}, I informed the Mr. that we should *try* and find a way to return yearly because it's an actual far-flung hideaway. Normally, the Mr. rolls his eyes at my big-picture proclamations, but completely smitten by the isle as well, he agreed we should try.

While I love the cottage-cool, 11-room boutique hotel watching over Lanai City's main square, my beach, design and trip-styling side is head-over-heels for the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay.

When I visited for the first time two years ago, the resort director hinted at some major updates, noting they would be at the forefront of technology and design, and rival the world's best hotel rooms, if not re-create the benchmark. This is a tall order; though {as I learned}, not for a titan of industry looking to create one of the world's most edited escapes.  

During my visit in April 2015 I got a sneak peek at the changes, which are taking the property down to its studs. Right now, about half of the renovations are complete, where innovation comes in the form of microchip room bracelets {so you can do anything on land or sea and not worry about losing your key}, design comes in the form of teak-adorned rooms with custom wallpaper murals, technology comes in the form of 75" televisions in every room and amenities come in the form of in-room Nespresso, Mercedes Sprinter service and included kids camp.

Fanning out over the sloping south side of Lanai's 90,000-acre landscape, the hotel is set to make its full reveal in mid-fall, but until then, here's a lens into its look. Stay tuned for more updates in the fall.

Hotel public space {worthy of the Architectural Digest cover}

More of the hotel's public space

The new rooms: sleek, earthy and upscale with teak throughout and finishes fit for a king

About to sip house-made sparkling guava juice on my patio

See that tidal wave art on the left? That's a 75" platinum bezel LED television panel, standard in every room type.

Still one of my all-time favorite guest amenities: in-room Nespresso

The Japanese soaking tub in my suite

If you can believe it, this is the "before" {pre-renovation} pool picture. Come fall 2015 there will be three cascading free-form pools: one main, one family and one adult. 

There are three ice cream sandwiches on the poolside menu. I ate all three and suggest you do the same for "research" purposes. They're seriously good with the perfect chew and crunch factor on the outside and creamy melty inside.

Hulopoe Bay: Where pods of Hawaiian spinner dolphins play and the beach is paradise found

NOBU LANAI, the only NOBU in the world to source vegetables from its own garden

NOBU LANAI

NOBU LANAI's fresh tuna salad with greens from its on-site lettuce patch

One of the most magical places to watch the sunset {that I've seen so far in my travels} is Sweetheart Rock, a 20-minute walk/hike from the property. 

Sunset selfie

A "standard" evening view from the hotel

Dusk

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Some in-the-moment family photos:

The staff stop at nothing to please. When we were at the pool they asked us if we were going to relax at the beach. We said "probably not" because handling Baby Styler in the sand would be tricky; that is, until we found this playpen they set up for us. Beach day, accomplished.

About to take Baby Styler for his first-ever swim!

We take a photo of Baby Styler on the bed of every hotel; this shot is one of our favorites.

When the light is this spectacular, you have to capture the moment with a lens.

[photos by @tripstyler taken while a guest of the hotel; select shots courtesy of four seasons]

Croatia Calling: Dalmatian Islands

[trip style = beach & sun]

It's hard to choose an island or two when visiting Croatia — especially with over a thousand to choose from. Set against the shimmering Adriatic, Croatia's islands boast romantic towns, pebbled beaches, fresh seafood and dramatic landscapes. Whether you're looking for a low-key escape or a jet-set experience, there's an island for you.

I visited two Dalmatian islands — Korčula and Hvar — during shoulder season, before the hiking sandal and bikini clad crowds {respectively} took over these otherwise sleepy southern islands. Korčula is humbler than its hipper and ritzier sister island; with an easygoing appeal. Picture-perfect as either a day trip or a two-day vacation from your vacation, Korčula — the purported birthplace of Marco Polo — is also known for its medieval old town and local dessert wine. Hvar is Croatia's answer to Ibiza, otherwise known as the "Croat d'Azur". In the summer, this fishing village turns into a catwalk as multiple yachts drop anchor in the busy Hvar town harbor. I was amused by the signs outside businesses {even the fortress} banning visitors wearing only bathing suits. Its popularity must be due to its undeniable beauty — a harbor edged with bougainvillea, crystal-clear water and an intoxicating scent of sea air and lavender.

Korčula

DO // Travel via car ferry to Korčula.

DO // Enjoy a coffee or beer along Šetalište Petra Kanavelića in Old Town.

A fisherman on the Adriatic Sea 

DO // Set off on foot to explore the island and find secret swimming spots, basketball courts or vineyards

STAY // Our charming apartment in Old Town, recommended by Rick Steves and found on Booking.com

Hvar

DO // Travel via catamaran from Korčula to Hvar {BYO Gravol}

STAY // Our room at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, a modern waterfront hotel 

View of the Hvar town harbor from our hotel room balcony 

Indoor infinity seawater pool with adjacent rooftop terrace

Harbor views from our hotel restaurant, which served a champagne breakfast {included in room rate}

Sailboats lined up along the Hvar harbor

DO // Hike up to Hvar Fortress for gorgeous views and tiny churches {see image at top for harbor view}.

Things to know

• A little pronunciation help: KOR-choo-lah and h-VAR
• To avoid Hvar's Ibiza-level crowds, visit before or after the height of summer in mid May/June or September/early October.
• Don't miss out on the regional cuisine: fresh-off-the-boat, melt-in-your-mouth fish and shellfish.
• Croatia has a very good national ferry company, Jadrolinija. Buy tickets early for peak-season travel.

This post is written by Trip Styler's Assistant Wayfarer/Editor Heather.

Related
Croatia Calling: Dubrovnik
Roam+Board: Hotel Lone

[images by @heatherlovesit]

Croatia Calling: Dubrovnik

[trip style = urban + beach & sun]

Dubrovnik is a modern city whose rugged beauty rivals the Mediterranean, as well as a medieval city that serves as a metaphor for freedom and Croatia's complex cultural past as a Republic of the former Yugoslavia. These elements, coupled with the affordability of the region in relation to the Côte d'Azur or the Amalfi Coast, make it a charming and cost-effective destination. Not quite a hidden gem, as charter flight and cruise ship crowds descend in droves over the summer months, Dubrovnik — the Pearl of the Adriatic — is still the country's single best destination. Check out our Drink and Do recommendations below. Must-do's: walk the wall, swim the sea and drink the wine!

DO // Explore the side streets of Old Town. Above left: The view from our apartment.

DO // Rent a kayak and paddle to the nearby island of Lokrum.

Kayakers outside the city walls

DRINK // This literal hole-in-the-wall bar — accessed through a hole in the ancient city walls — boasts spectacular views and pricey beer. To find Buza Bar, follow the signs that read "Cold drinks with the most beautiful view".

DO // You may notice it's more difficult to swim in the saltier waters of the Adriatic Sea, but swimming off the rocks outside medieval city walls is not to be missed.

DO // Walk the walls of Old Town [~$16] to get a feel of the place.

City walls view

City walls view

City walls view

DO // Hop a boat to a nearby island — Lokrum, Mljet or the Elaphiti Islands — for the best beaches and hikes.

The cliffs below Dubrovnik castle, included in the city walls walk

DRINK // Try a flight of Croatian wine at d'vino wine bar on a charming side street in Old Town. 

DO // Ride the cable car high above Old Town for a history lesson and panoramic views. Buy a one-way ticket [~$10] and hike down the mountain and through the steeply set hill homes.

Things to know

• The best time to visit is April to October. Avoid the charter and cruise ship passengers by visiting in shoulder season or staying away from Old Town in the mornings and early afternoons.
• Staying inside the walls of Old Town is charming, but consider an apartment or hotel up the hill or in the newer area of town for a quieter atmosphere and a view.
• I booked our apartment on Booking.com, which doesn't charge the booking fees of Airbnb [but offers many of the same properties for rent!]. Another option is to wait until you arrive, where in the summer months you'll be greeted by homeowners advertising their suites at the city gates.
• I still miss the lemon, lime and grapefruit beer in Croatia. Seek out the refreshing and affordable radlers from Ožujsko and Karlovačko.
• Our best meal in Dubrovnik was in nearby Cavtat at Bugenvila.
• English is widely spoken throughout the city.
• A member of the EU since 2013, Croatia still has its own currency, the kuna, for now.
• Rick Steves' Croatia and Slovenia Guidebook is a worthwhile sidekick for history tidbits and self-guided walks.

This post is written by Trip Styler's Assistant Wayfarer/Editor Heather.

Related
Roam+Board: Hotel Lone

[images by @heatherlovesit]

First Look: Four Seasons Lanai

[trip style = luxury + sun]

Editor's Note: As a mega-fan of all things Four Seasons, I've been asked to guest judge the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea's Couples Season photo contest, where in true FS form, each prize is worth more than $2,000 USD. Book a stay and enter here. Open to residents of Canada, USA, UK and Australia.

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When I stayed at the Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay—just a 40-min boat ride from Maui—two years ago, I promised myself I'd come back. Beyond style, it had soul—a soul that kept me from wanting to leave, as well as instigated my return. 

Look for more photos and details on what I would call my Hawaii "spirit hotel" in the coming weeks, but in the meantime, here's a sneak peek to put this retreat on your radar. 

The pool

The rooms — easily in my top five for design, finish and wow-factor 

An open-air Nobu outpost overlooking the ocean

Nightfall

[photos by @tripstyler]