Croatia Calling: Dalmatian Islands

[trip style = beach & sun]

It's hard to choose an island or two when visiting Croatia — especially with over a thousand to choose from. Set against the shimmering Adriatic, Croatia's islands boast romantic towns, pebbled beaches, fresh seafood and dramatic landscapes. Whether you're looking for a low-key escape or a jet-set experience, there's an island for you.

I visited two Dalmatian islands — Korčula and Hvar — during shoulder season, before the hiking sandal and bikini clad crowds {respectively} took over these otherwise sleepy southern islands. Korčula is humbler than its hipper and ritzier sister island; with an easygoing appeal. Picture-perfect as either a day trip or a two-day vacation from your vacation, Korčula — the purported birthplace of Marco Polo — is also known for its medieval old town and local dessert wine. Hvar is Croatia's answer to Ibiza, otherwise known as the "Croat d'Azur". In the summer, this fishing village turns into a catwalk as multiple yachts drop anchor in the busy Hvar town harbor. I was amused by the signs outside businesses {even the fortress} banning visitors wearing only bathing suits. Its popularity must be due to its undeniable beauty — a harbor edged with bougainvillea, crystal-clear water and an intoxicating scent of sea air and lavender.

Korčula

DO // Travel via car ferry to Korčula.

DO // Enjoy a coffee or beer along Šetalište Petra Kanavelića in Old Town.

A fisherman on the Adriatic Sea 

DO // Set off on foot to explore the island and find secret swimming spots, basketball courts or vineyards

STAY // Our charming apartment in Old Town, recommended by Rick Steves and found on Booking.com

Hvar

DO // Travel via catamaran from Korčula to Hvar {BYO Gravol}

STAY // Our room at Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, a modern waterfront hotel 

View of the Hvar town harbor from our hotel room balcony 

Indoor infinity seawater pool with adjacent rooftop terrace

Harbor views from our hotel restaurant, which served a champagne breakfast {included in room rate}

Sailboats lined up along the Hvar harbor

DO // Hike up to Hvar Fortress for gorgeous views and tiny churches {see image at top for harbor view}.

Things to know

• A little pronunciation help: KOR-choo-lah and h-VAR
• To avoid Hvar's Ibiza-level crowds, visit before or after the height of summer in mid May/June or September/early October.
• Don't miss out on the regional cuisine: fresh-off-the-boat, melt-in-your-mouth fish and shellfish.
• Croatia has a very good national ferry company, Jadrolinija. Buy tickets early for peak-season travel.

This post is written by Trip Styler's Assistant Wayfarer/Editor Heather.

Related
Croatia Calling: Dubrovnik
Roam+Board: Hotel Lone

[images by @heatherlovesit]

Croatia Calling: Dubrovnik

[trip style = urban + beach & sun]

Dubrovnik is a modern city whose rugged beauty rivals the Mediterranean, as well as a medieval city that serves as a metaphor for freedom and Croatia's complex cultural past as a Republic of the former Yugoslavia. These elements, coupled with the affordability of the region in relation to the Côte d'Azur or the Amalfi Coast, make it a charming and cost-effective destination. Not quite a hidden gem, as charter flight and cruise ship crowds descend in droves over the summer months, Dubrovnik — the Pearl of the Adriatic — is still the country's single best destination. Check out our Drink and Do recommendations below. Must-do's: walk the wall, swim the sea and drink the wine!

DO // Explore the side streets of Old Town. Above left: The view from our apartment.

DO // Rent a kayak and paddle to the nearby island of Lokrum.

Kayakers outside the city walls

DRINK // This literal hole-in-the-wall bar — accessed through a hole in the ancient city walls — boasts spectacular views and pricey beer. To find Buza Bar, follow the signs that read "Cold drinks with the most beautiful view".

DO // You may notice it's more difficult to swim in the saltier waters of the Adriatic Sea, but swimming off the rocks outside medieval city walls is not to be missed.

DO // Walk the walls of Old Town [~$16] to get a feel of the place.

City walls view

City walls view

City walls view

DO // Hop a boat to a nearby island — Lokrum, Mljet or the Elaphiti Islands — for the best beaches and hikes.

The cliffs below Dubrovnik castle, included in the city walls walk

DRINK // Try a flight of Croatian wine at d'vino wine bar on a charming side street in Old Town. 

DO // Ride the cable car high above Old Town for a history lesson and panoramic views. Buy a one-way ticket [~$10] and hike down the mountain and through the steeply set hill homes.

Things to know

• The best time to visit is April to October. Avoid the charter and cruise ship passengers by visiting in shoulder season or staying away from Old Town in the mornings and early afternoons.
• Staying inside the walls of Old Town is charming, but consider an apartment or hotel up the hill or in the newer area of town for a quieter atmosphere and a view.
• I booked our apartment on Booking.com, which doesn't charge the booking fees of Airbnb [but offers many of the same properties for rent!]. Another option is to wait until you arrive, where in the summer months you'll be greeted by homeowners advertising their suites at the city gates.
• I still miss the lemon, lime and grapefruit beer in Croatia. Seek out the refreshing and affordable radlers from Ožujsko and Karlovačko.
• Our best meal in Dubrovnik was in nearby Cavtat at Bugenvila.
• English is widely spoken throughout the city.
• A member of the EU since 2013, Croatia still has its own currency, the kuna, for now.
• Rick Steves' Croatia and Slovenia Guidebook is a worthwhile sidekick for history tidbits and self-guided walks.

This post is written by Trip Styler's Assistant Wayfarer/Editor Heather.

Related
Roam+Board: Hotel Lone

[images by @heatherlovesit]