copenhagen

Spotlight :: Copenhagen {Part 2}

[trip style = urban]

As soon as I arrived in Copenhagen, I noticed the bicycleshundreds of them leaned up against fences, seemingly free from cumbersome locks. I wondered: does no one lock their bike because of the sheer volume of bikes in the city? Have I stumbled upon the safest and friendliest city in the world, where people don't just greet you with a single "Hi" but with a twice-as-nice "Hi hi"?

Upon closer inspection, I noticed a small round lock built into the frame above the rear wheel. This genius device allows Copenhageners to park their bikes anywhere, so it's not uncommon to constantly step around bikes perched on the sidewalk in front of shops.

All their cycling must make the healthy, beautiful and fashion-forward locals hungry, so it's a good thing they live in a city known for its food. Last week I covered where to drink and shop and today I'll recommend what to eat and do. I already can't wait to go back for more than a weekend; perhaps in the winter if only to verify that the Danes really do ride their bikes in the snow like they say they do.

Eat

Copenhagen is the epicenter of New Nordic cuisine, and their most hallowed ground is Noma, recently named the best restaurant in the world for the third consecutive year. At this prix-fixe restaurant, fine dining meets foraging and you have to call months ahead to get a table. If you haven't planned ahead, or reindeer moss and sea urchin toast isn't your thing, try one of the city's other adventurous restaurantsRadio, Relae, Geist, Hostwhose chefs often come from Noma.

Trip Styler Tip: Copenhageners eat on the early side, so expect most restaurants to stop serving food between 9-10pm.

Torvehallerne
Try traditional Danish foods like smørrebrød {open-faced sandwiches}, pickled herring and rye bread, or go for modern options like cold-pressed juice, pour-over coffee and a Paleo omelette wrap at Torvehallerne, Copenhagen's vibrant market hall. More than 60 shops and food stands crowd the upscale market complex, made up of modern glass sheds on a cobblestone square. Prefer organic food? You're in the right place; Copenhagen is Europe's largest consumer of organic produce.

Trip Styler Tip: Expect everything to cost 1.5-2x as much as you're accustomed to at home.

Grød
Porridge probably isn't the first food that comes to mind when you think about eating out. But this porridge is less Orange is the New Black and more gourmet comfort food. Their goal is to redefine the concept of porridge and prove that it can be delicious, healthy and cheap. Porridge options include oatmeal with dulce de leche, apple and toasted almond for breakfast; risotto with tomato, parmesan and basil for lunch; and congee with chicken, ginger, peanuts and scallions for dinner. This is the type of restaurant I wish I had in my own neighborhood. Get ready New YorkGrød is coming for you in 2015.

Do

Superkilen
A kilometer-long park in Copenhagen's Nørrebro neighbourhood, Superkilen's design was a collaboration between Danish architects Bjarke Ingels Group, art group Superflex and Berlin landscape architects Topotek1. Three zonesred, black and green {shown above}form the urban park, which was created to unify a socially and ethnically diverse community. This park was the most pleasant surprise of my trip {and only a 10-minute walk from Jaegersborggade, one of the hippest streets in Copenhagen and home to Grød and The Coffee Collective}.

Christianshavn on two wheels
If you're brave enough to ride alongside the locals, rent a bike and cross the bridge from Copenhagen K {downtown} to Christianshavn and begin your cycle tour in "freetown" Christiania, founded in the early 70s as an alternative society with its own set of rules. In an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown, he called it a "well-established enclave of hippie anarchist squatters [which] sounds about as attractive as being sentenced to life at a Phish concert." Ride past creative ramshackle homes, galleries and world-famous Pusher Street a.k.a. the green light district.

From Christiania, ride along the water to the Copenhagen Opera House, a striking glass and steel building that localsand apparently architect Henning Larsen himselfcall the toaster. Stop at nearby Paper Island for coffee or lunch before finishing at Church of Our Saviour, where for a small fee you can climb 400 steps to its corkscrew spire for the best view in town.

On my next visit, I plan to visit Tivoli, the second-oldest amusement park in the world, which is said to have inspired Walt Disney's vision for Disneyland, as well as Ordrupgaard Museum and Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

Related
Spotlight :: Copenhagen {Part 1}
Jetset Style :: Scandinavia-Inspired Jackets

[images by @heatherlovesit & @graceyvr except top-right torvehallerne images via food republic and bottom-left superkilen image via superflex]

Spotlight :: Copenhagen {Part 1}

[trip style = urban]

Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen / Friendly old girl of a town
'Neath her tavern light / On this merry night
Let us clink and drink one down

"Wonderful Copenhagen"

Cocktails and coffee in Copenhagen almost sums up my two-day trip to the Danish capital, where as the lyrics go, I clinked and drank one down. While I'd recommend a few more days to explore, two days were just enough to get a taste and know I'd be back for seconds.

Today I'll cover where to drink and shop and next week I'll recommend what to eat and do. And yes, it involves bicycling, because when in Rome {except in this case Rome feels more like Amsterdam of the North}. In a city of 570,000 people and 650,000 bikes, I wonder if their biking habits contribute to their nation's ranking as the happiest country on earth? It could be the fresh air and exercise, but it could be the cocktails and coffee.
 

Drink

The Union Bar
Head towards the charming yet touristy Nyhavn Street, turn right down a side street and look for an unmarked black door, ring the golden bell above the sign that says "Nordic Fitting Models" and wait to be buzzed in. In this dark, dimly lit speakeasy, innovative and approachable bartenders serve killer cocktails. The prices are steepabout $25 cadbut the drinks are strong and the experience is unforgettable. That is, if you can find it. {Neighborhood: Nyhavn}

Mikkeller Bar
If you like boys with beards or girls with topknots, you will like this bar. If you like neighborhoods formerly known as red light or meatpacking districts, you will like this bar. If you like communal picnic tables and cozy industrial-styled basements, you will like this bar. And if you like imaginative beer dreamed up by a gypsy brewer, you will like this bar. {Neighborhood: Vesterbro or Nørrebro}

The Coffee Collective
My morning coffee fix was satisfied at The Coffee Collective in Nørrebro, on a street occupied by small boutiques, progressive restaurants and cool dads out with their kids. If the sun is shining, sit at a long table outside this compact coffee bar and roaster and enjoy a cortado and vibrant street scene view. {Neighborhood: Nørrebro, Torvehallerne or Frederiksberg}

Den Plettede Gris
You don't have to ask me twice to visit the tiny cafe attached to the workshop of my favorite Danish designer—especially one as eccentrically appealing as Henrik Vibskov. A three-minute bike ride from the Opera House, on an island that's home to a science museum, a food truck hall and several design businesses, Den Plettede Gris is an ideal escape for coffee and a peek into the designer's creative center. {Neighborhood: Paper Island}

Shop

The city's main shopping area centers around Strøget, one of the longest pedestrian streets in the world at over 1 km. Look for department stores, high street chains and design shops on the main drag, and specialty and high end shops on the side streets.

Every good shopper knows you start in the sale section. Don't miss the deals at the Acne Archive outlet store, where I spotted an impressive selection of denim, and the Wood Wood Museum outlet, where I spotted stylish Japanese sneaker collaborations and discounted Common Projects sneakers.

More shops worth your time are the flagships of Danish womenswear brand Ganni and Danish menswear brand Norse Projects, as well as lifestyle concept stores Storm and Normann. Keep an eye out for Danish brands like Rains and Ilse Jacobsen, whose rain jackets and boots will keep you dry in style.

Finally, mentally furnish your dream home with contemporary Danish designs from Hay House. Even if you can't fly home with a sofa, you can pick up a neon geometric tea towel or brass kitchen tool from the gorgeous shop on Strøget. And set aside time to browse the massive Illums Bolighus, purveyor to the Royal Danish Court and temple of modern Scandinavian design.

This post is written by Trip Styler's Assistant Wayfarer/Editor Heather.

Related
Jetset Style :: Scandinavia-Inspired Jackets
Spotlight :: Copenhagen {Part 2}
Spotlight :: Amsterdam

[images by @heatherlovesit & @graceyvr except union bar via stirred.dk, mikkeller bar via their website, hay house via joelix.com]

Fashion Friday :: Cycle Chic

cycle chic[trip style = urban]

{Editor's Note: We will not be publishing on Easter Monday.}

Fashion Friday posts are published regularly by fashion and lifestyle blogger Heather.

I'm heading to Amsterdam next month and recently a friend jokingly asked if I'd go to the red light district. I confess I hadn't even thought about it. When I think of Amsterdam, I imagine stylish cyclists on Dutch upright bikes with tulips in their baskets riding alongside picturesque canals. I suspect the same thing of Copenhagen, and I refuse to think any differently until I'm proved wrong. Part of this confidence comes from my faithful addiction to street style blogs and their sub genre, cycle chic blogs, birthed in Copenhagen in 2007.

There's something magical about cycling in a bike-friendly city, smiling at passersby, having moments of fleeting flirtation at stoplights with fellow cyclists, all while getting in some light cardio. Of course bike commuting is only magical until that moment when it begins to downpour, you're splashed by passing cars, yelled at by impatient cyclists and you knock down a whole row of bikes while locking up your own. That's when you go inside for a Heineken. Speaking of Dutch beer, I'll have to drink some and I'll have to go to the red light district. It would be disrespectful not to...right?!

amsterdam milan cycle chic

amsterdam cycle chic

new york paris amsterdam cycle chic

milan copenhagen cycle chic

amsterdam milan cycle chic

copenhagen milan cycle chic

amsterdam cycle chic

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[street style photos via thesartorialist.com, garancedoré.fr, amsterdamcyclechic.com, thelocals.dk and jakandjil.com]